All of my clients are asked to provide information to complete a Client Card at the first appointment. It 's really important that the information provided is correct and regularly updated with everything I need to know about your dog’s health and behaviour. Please ensure that you advise me of any changes at future appointments.
Please also ensure that your dog has been adequately toileted prior to their appointment.
I may photograph, or video your dogs being groomed and use these images on my website and other social media pages.
If you'd prefer for me not to do this, please just let me know.
Late cancellations and no shows really do affect my business. Missed appointments will incur a fee of £15, payable at your next appointment. Cancellations without 24hrs notice will incur a £10 fee payable at your next appointment. I really hope all my customers understand the need for this policy. Thank you.
If you’re the owner of a Poodle cross, Shih Tzu, Bichon...basically any dog that has a fluffy/curly/wool coat, these hints and tips are especially for you.
If you’re wanting to bath your dog please don’t leave them to dry naturally! This will cause matting to develop and make it really hard to clip your dog on anything but a really short blade once you’re allowed to take your dog to their groomer.
You need to blow dry your dog, brushing it continually and aiming to get your dog’s coat as straight as possible . A slicker brush is best for this & these are available to order off Amazon and eBay, so there’s no need to leave the house to get one .
Towel drying will add matting into even the best prepared coat, especially if it’s long &/or fluffy - remember friction is your enemy! If you need to towel dry your dog than please pat them dry, don’t rub.
Conditioner is a must-have for fluffy/wool coated breeds as this will also help to stop/reduce matting. Invest in a good quality dog shampoo and conditioner...again available online if you don’t already own a bottle. Plus, if you wanted to go the extra mile...detangling sprays are brilliant & not very expensive.
While you’re unable to take your dogs to a groomer, it’s really important that you brush them regularly, otherwise painful mats & knots will develop that are uncomfortable for your dog and also mean that when they can visit a groomer again, they’re definitely going to have to get clipped extra short!
Here’s a brief guide on how best to brush any dog, but especially those with a curly/wool/thick coat.
Where To Brush
Please see the image attached - not very technical but should do the job.
RED - Priority areas - brush, brush and brush some more every day. These areas are prone to felting & matting and are the first areas to become messy. Muzzle, ears, legs (inside & outside), the armpits, chest, tummy & top part of the tail.
YELLOW - Medium priority areas - still need brushing daily but are less prone to matting as they’re in areas that don’t really get any friction. Top of the head, tail and the rib cage area.
BLUE - Low priority - these areas are the least prone to matting, but again it’s still important to brush daily. Top line and the back.
What To Use
A slicker brush and metal comb are the best tools for the job.
If you don’t already have these, both are available for delivery from Amazon and eBay, so there’s no need to leave your house. I personally prefer to use a slicker brush with rounded ball pins, as they tend to be gentler on your dog’s skin.
A de-tangling spray is also extremely helpful & easy to apply, following the instructions on the bottle. Again, there are plenty to choose from online.
How To Brush
Gently run your comb through your dog’s coat and when you reach an area the comb won’t easily go through, you need to brush down to the roots using the slicker brush.
A matted area will sound like Velcro when you brush it. Once you’ve been working the area for a while and removing the mats and knots, it will sound quieter when you brush over it. Hopefully this will make more sense when you start to brush your dog!
Once you think you’ve removed all the mats and knots in the area you’re working on, run your comb through it again to double check.
Be aware not to press too hard with the brush & don’t continually brush over the same area too much - you don’t want to cause the skin to be sensitive.
The best way to be happy with your brushing technique is to try it on your own arm, so you understand the pressure required.
If your dog is used to going to a groomer’s, they may behave better if you’re able to stand them on a higher, non-slip surface - they should associate this with being on a grooming table, plus it will save your back.
You could use a non-slip mat on a work top or table, or even put a hard, non-slip surface on top of a dog crate.
Please be aware of any lumps and bumps your dog may have & be gentle and extra careful when grooming around these. Most dogs have at least 2, if not 4 dew claws - please be careful you don’t mistake these for knots and mats in your dog’s coat & try to comb/brush them out.
Try not to make grooming too much of a play time. Don’t let your dog get in to the habit of mouthing your hand, or keep grabbing the brush as if it’s a game. When your groomer grooms your dog, they’ll tend to have clippers and scissors in their hands and grabbing these would be dangerous for them.
I really hope this info helps and if anyone needs any more assistance, please just get in touch.